SERGER ADVICE

What serger/overlock sewing machine should I buy?

Serger or overlock sewing machine isn’t a necessity for a home sewer, yet, if you can afford it, it is a great addition. It’s like a picture without a frame; the unfinished edges will give your project an unfinished look. For professional tailoring, dressmaking or sewing dance costumes it is a must. As with sewing machine, you don’t need to own a hi-tech device. Your serger should be simple, durable and easy to use. Things you need to know about a serger:

1. Ease of threading – as sergers involve more threads than your regular sewing machine to create a stitch, there’s always an issue with threading the sergers. Threads go through: 1 or 2 needles, upper looper and a lower looper (think of the last two as constant flowing bobbin thread that doesn’t require winding ). The lower looper is the hardest one to thread because of limited visibility and restricted access. Usually, we do not have a problem with that as we never pull threads out of the serger completely. When different colored thread is required, we simply tie the ends of the new color to the old ones and pull everything through. As long as you tie the ends really good and carefully pull the threads through (remember, not serge, but pull), this method never fails. You will pay more for a model that has an automated lower looper threader. If cost isn’t an issue, that will be the machine to buy.

2. Differential feed - allows you to adjust how smoothly fabrics of different thicknesses can be fed through the feed dog and the pressure foot. It can be used for intentional puckering and gathering. To take full advantage of this feature, consult your instruction manual or take classes at the store you’ve purchased your machine. The instructions would be too specific to your machine for us to provide an e-class.

3. Ease of changing from serging to a rolled hem: rolled hem is a narrow hem that is commonly used to finish edges on knits or sheer fabrics. It is a must when sewing bridal wear or dance costumes. Each fabric requires it’s own settings. Please, avoid machines that give only preset options. You need to be in control.
Make sure to check AllBrands.com They have great selection and excellent prices.

Types of overlock sewing machines.

Overlock sewing machines are commonly classified by number of threads used to produce a stitch.
1. 2-thread - for finishing edges and as a decorative stitch (flatlock), excellent on elastics and lace.
2. 3-thread – the most common: for joining fabrics together, for rolled hemming and picot edging.
3. 4-thread - for creating decorative edging and strong seams.
4. 5-thread – industrial use

What features and functions do you really need?

Most domestic sergers come in 4- thread and can be easily changed to perform 3 or 2 thread serging.

MUST HAVE
1) Thread tension dials ( not preset)
2) Differential feed dial ( not preset)
3) Stitch length selection (not preset)
4) Retractable knife blades
5) Rolled hem
6) Color-coded threading system
7) Don’t require special needles
8) Snap-off feet

NICE TO HAVE
1) Automated lower looper threader (it’s the hardest to thread)
2) Speed control
3) Free arm
4) Ability to sew and cut through heavier fabrics
6) Ability to change easily from serging to a rolled hem
7) Flatlock stitch
8) Carrying case
9) Lint catcher

REAL EXTRAS
1) 5-thread serging
2) Mesh thread socks
3) Picot edging
4) Blind stitch foot
5) Taping foot
6) Cording foot
7) Beading attachment
8) Gathering attachment
9) Elastic gathering attachment
10) Piping foot

OVERVIEW

1) Consumer reports.
It is an excellent source of information on brand names, but don’t make your decision entirely on their ratings.

2) Return policy.
It is always a good idea to be able to try your machine at home, not just in the store and bring it back if you are not satisfied

3) Warranty.
Don’t leave without one. Most of the stores offer one year warranty and you can purchase additional two or three years. Shop for the warranty just as much you are shopping for the serger itself.

Warranty questions:
1) How long is manufactures warranty and what does it cover?
2) How long is extended warranty and what is the cost?
3) What exactly an extended warranty cover ?
4) Can I purchase an extended warranty later?
5) Do I need to register on-line or by mail?
6) Where do I bring my machine for warranty repairs?
7) If I have to send it, who is responsible for shipping?
8) How long does it take?
9) How does the warranty work if I move?

4) Maintenance packages.
Sergers require more maintenance than regular sewing machines as there are more parts involved in creating a stitch and with cutting involved there’s more lint to clean up. Make sure to follow cleaning instructions at home and maintenance schedule with the store and you will enjoy your machine for a while. Maintenance packages are optional. We strongly recommend them unless you are planning to move to a different city.

5) Weight.
Weight of the machine can be an important factor if you are planning to attend classes, retreats or if you move frequently

P.S. These are only guidelines gathered from experience, research and intended as information only. Please, use it at your own risk. Uptown Sewing. 2009

Back