COMMON SEWING PROBLEMS

Sewing techniques have advanced as much as the sewing machines themselves. Good news; they’ve gotten better and simpler. The true tailors with strict rules, perfect seam allowances have retired and the new era of simplicity has taken it’s place. But it doesn’t mean that there are no rules; they are there and most of the sewing problems do arise from ignoring them.

Needles
Thread Tension
Pressure Dial
Pressure Foot
Thread
Pressing or Ironing
Choice of Fabric

NEEDLES

The most common problem we’ve found is that sewers do not realize how important is to match your needle to a certain task. We’ve heard so many times when people change their needles only when they break. It’s so WRONG! Each type of needle is designed to sew through a different type of fabric. For example, you wouldn’t be using fork to eat your soup, yet you could, if you want.

1) Types of sewing machine needles:
1. Universal – doesn’t mean will do everything
2. Twin - used for creating perfect double seam
3. Topstitch
4. Ballpoint - for elastics and knits
5. Denim
6. Embroidery
7. Leather
8. Microtex - perfect for shears, organza
9. Quilting
10. Metallic
11. Stretch
12. Stretch Twin

2) Size of needles
European sizes range from 60 to 120. American needles are sized from 8 to 19. On the needle itself, you will see both corresponding numbers paired e.g. 60/8 and 70/10. The smaller the number, the finer is the needle. As a common sense, the heavier is the fabric, the larger the number should be. Perfect example is a bridesmaid dress where the top layer is organza - Microtex needle # 60/8, the underlay is made out of heavier knit fabric - Ballpoint # 80/12 and lining is medium weight polyester - Universal # 70/10 will be a great choice. If you don’t know which one to use, try different ones on a scrap first. The needle that will sew a stitch without skipping, snagging, bunching and poking huge holes will be the right one.
We like color-coded needles the most. We always have a box of each type of commonly used needles handy at all times. With the volume of sewing we do, we change our needles about 6-8 times a day.
Try AllBrands.com for your needles and other sewing supplies.

THREAD TENSION

Thread tension is probably the second most common problem that sewers underestimate. Sewing machine uses two threads: one from the spool and one from the bobbin. Once interlocked, they form a stitch. Because each machine is different, please, make sure to consult your manual or the place you have purchased your machine for proper bobbin winding and threading your machine. Run a test stitch. The stitch should be even, not loose and not too tight. Most of the manuals have a section on adjusting the tension.

PRESSURE DIAL

Pressure dial is another overlooked feature in any sewing machines. Usually, there are three settings where # 1 is the lightest. The more the fabric is squeezed between the presser foot and the plate, the sturdier the fabric will be. It should be set to # 3 for regular sewing and should be reduced to #2 or #1 for basting, appliqué, embroidery or monogramming as free movement of fabric is essential. Velours, knits and stretches require # 1 setting as well. Too much pressure creates waviness especially when hemming stretch garments.

PRESSER FOOT

Some machines come with some basic choices already. The rest, we recommend, you buy as it goes.
Must have:
1. Zigzag foot
2. Zipper
3. Overedge (if you don’t won a serger or overlock machine)
4. Buttonhole foot
5. Blind hem
6. Straight stitch
7. Embroidery (if it is an embroidery machine)
Extra
8. Teflon foot
9. Applique
10. Ruffler
11. Roller
12. Walking foot
13. Piping
14. Gathering
15. Pin-tuck
16. Rolled hemmer
17. Ribbon, sequine foot
18. Cording
And more

THREAD

There’s nothing wrong of being thrifty and using your grandmas old threads, but remember, it could be the part of your sewing problem. Good quality thread will give you a good steady interlocking thus eliminating puckers, holes and snags. There are several types of threads out there.
1. Regular polyester – most common for all type of sewing
2. Serger or ovelock sewing machine
3. Cotton – used mostly for quilting
4. Invisible – good for blind hem, bridal lace application
5. Polyester embroidery
6. Rayon embroidery – gives more professional look
7. Metallic
8. Elastic – mostly for fine gathers when hand sewing
9. Variegated – multicolored thread
10. Wooly nylon –mostly used on swimwear, gives better stretch
11. Heavy-duty nylon – used for upholstery.

Suggested thread weight guide - for professional sewing only
Light weight fabric 60/2, 50/2
Medium weight fabric 60/3, 50/3, 40/2, 30/2
Heavy weight fabric 30/3, 20/4
e.g. - 60/2, 60 –weight, 2 is ply. The lower the weight # the heavier the thread is.

PRESSING or IRONING

You probably always wonder why homemade skirt looks homemade. Not enough PRESSING is the answer. On average, we spend just as much time at the ironing board as much as at the sewing machine. Good quality iron with different steam settings is essential. Some people recommend heavier irons for better results. They may be right, but we prefer lighter ones as heavier irons are hard on our wrists; we just apply more pressure if required. For basic sewing at home, you don’t need a super-expensive iron, but it must have:

1. Non-stick soleplate
2. Different steam output setting
3. Dry setting
4. Self-clean
5. Good warranty

We`ve had to return irons with digital displays as we found that we didn`t have enough time to fiddle with all the different PRESET settings. All we needed is a good, simple iron with settings that are easy to adjust. Normally, we don’t like presets in any of our equipment anyway as we like to be in control.
Pressing as you go is essential in any type of sewing whether it is an alteration or dressmaking. We press each time we sew a seam. E.g. you are sewing two pieces of fabric together. Your steps will be:

1. Finish the edges
2. Press, so your overlock stitches are nice & flat.
3. Join two pieces
4. Press seams open (or to one side, depending on your project)
5. Turn your joined fabric to the right side and Press again using a press cloth.

Please, note, we do not press on right side of the fabric without a press cloth ever. Simple reason is to avoid shiny marks or even worth accidently melting clients clothing. You might get away with pair pants but, trust us, not with the bridal gown.

CHOICE OF FABRIC

Choice of fabric can be an issue if you are not taking your sewing level into consideration. As a beginner, we couldn’t see you taking on a chiffon or an organza dress. We will put fabrics in order from easiest to handle to the most difficult.

1. Polyester
2. Cotton
3. Muslin
4. Linen
5. Bridal satin
6. Wool
7. Felt
8. Silk
9. Taffeta
10. Chiffon
11. Knits
12. Stretch
13. Lingerie satin
14. Pre-treated fabrics (water or fire-proof)
15. Velvet
16. Tulle
17. Organza
18. Velour
Be sure to check Fabric.com. You never know what you will find. Fabric.com...Up to 70% off Retail

When you pick a sewing pattern, make sure to adhere to the list of recommended fabrics. Sewing patterns for stretch differ from patterns for polyester tremendously. As polyester has little give, there has to be an adjustment for ease, zippers and more. Joining different types of fabrics can be a challenge as well, e.g. polyester slides over velour or jean fabric will be too heavy for organza thus making it difficult to sew. Designers do break the rules all the time, but remember they or their tailors have so much experience they probably can sew eggshells to the wool and it will still look beautiful.

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